A Run in the Wild, the Cape Wrath Ultra

Well, that happened - Cape Wrath Ultra – just under a week since I completed 400km with 11,400 meters of elevation over 8 days in the Scottish Wilderness. It took a few days to decompress and think about the experience, and many folks asked if I enjoyed it. Yes! But… It is "Type II Fun", where it becomes more enjoyable as you reminisce after the event.

The TL;DR version…

It was hard. I had fun. Finished 16th overall, 7th in Class (male veterans) out of 180 participants. The total time to complete all stages was 64 hours and 12 minutes.

The Scottish Highlands are sublime, and they deserve respect. The real battles of the event are looking after your feet, cumulative fatigue, limited sleep and eating enough during the day and at night to recover for the following day.

The much longer version…

Competing in the Cape Wrath Ultra was an unforgettable experience, pushing the boundaries of endurance and showcasing the rugged beauty of Scotland. This eight-day, 400km ultra-running adventure took me through some of the UK's most remote and stunning landscapes. We had new challenges and breathtaking vistas each day, from the dramatic coastlines and towering peaks to the tranquil lochs and ancient forests.

Day 1 – 37km, 500m ascent – FORT WILLIAM TO GLENFINNAN

Highlights were the ferry to reach the starting point and Piper playing as we set off across the start line.

The first day of this legendary course would see us traversing 37 km from Fort William to Glenfinnan.

As the race began, we quickly settled into a rhythm, knowing we had a week of running with a daily average of an ultra-marathon. The initial segment took us through dense forests and along the shores of Loch Eil. The path was relatively forgiving, a gentle introduction to the trials ahead.

The descent towards Glenfinnan was equally demanding, requiring careful navigation over uneven ground. The challenge was to avoid missteps and finish strong to enjoy the first night at the camp.

As you arrive at the Day 1 camp, the iconic Glenfinnan Viaduct, famously featured in the Harry Potter films, marks our approach to the finish line. It was a great feeling to cross the line. I felt great, and was 34th overall on Day 1, and the event had truly begun. You got to meet your tent mates, unpack your overnight bag, and prepare for the next day. Being organised is important as you will be up at 5 am and ready to leave by 7 am. 

4 hours to complete.

Day 1 Highlights https://youtu.be/36egcbHn_s8?si=qzUroGtyBj4jNCLF

Day 2 – 57km, 1800m - GLENFINNAN TO KINLOCH HOURN

After a night of camping, the rest is fleeting if you are not used to camping and are easily disturbed by noise. It was one of the bigger challenges for me during the week. The longer the week went on, the better I slept. You reach a point where your body and mind adapt.

Today was a reminder that we mainly ran an ultra-distance marathon daily. This stage would take us deeper into the wild heart of the Scottish Highlands and something I had conveniently forgotten – a significant portion of the course would be unmarked and require significant concentration to navigate and ensure you cross as smoothly and efficiently as possible.

The path from camp quickly turned challenging, with rugged ascents and descents that tested our legs. The climb to Bealach a' Chaorainn was particularly taxing, a steep and rocky ascent. The sheer beauty of the landscape – vast, untamed, and majestic – was a powerful motivator. Alternatively, so I thought…

As we descended into the valley, the trail became a mixture of boggy ground and rocky outcrops, each step requiring careful navigation. I underestimated just how much energy moving through boggy ground requires. Also, a good portion of the route was unmarked, so you had to plan your path to minimise obstacles that you could see.

At the campsite, stories of the day's trials and triumphs were shared over hearty vegetarian meals (for the entire week), strengthening the sense of community. It is a luxury to arrive at the camp earlier than other folks as you can use all the amenities, unpack your camp bed, and set up bedding without encroaching on others.

Today had been a gruelling yet rewarding journey. With two days down and many more ahead, the Cape Wrath Ultra was starting.

11 hours to complete.

Day 2 Highlights https://youtu.be/fCA1j0aWpbA?si=d5_jZabpv5jvUVU_

Day 3 – 68km, 2400m - KINLOCH HOURN TO ACHNASHELLACH

If I thought yesterday was tough, today was a monster. While not the longest day on the route, Day 3 is generally agreed to be the toughest, with over 2000m of climb over rocky and rough technical terrain. The biggest issue today was the heat; it was a scorcher. I'm certain I had mild sunstroke by the end of the day; the heat affected many runners, and lots timed out of the main event. I only managed to cross the line at 21:15, 45 minutes from the cutoff.

On the positive side, the sunshine meant that the views of the Saddle and Five Sisters of Kintail, often shrouded in clouds, were today on full display. One highlight of the day was visiting the remote Falls of Glomach, a spectacular waterfall with narrow paths and big drops. You really needed to pay attention and need a head for heights.

Again, much pathless terrain, as much as 20% of the route today, was unmarked, creating its own challenges around navigation and staying injury-free. Do not underestimate the effort to find the shortest route through bogs and heather; most pathless terrain is very soft underfoot, making running a big effort.

I'd hooked up with Myron, who was struggling today, and although I could have moved much faster as the temperatures dropped later in the day, I hung back with Myron and kept him company, which in retrospect, kept me strong for the following days, but it squeezed the time for rest and recovery for the next day.

14 hours to complete.

Day 3 Highlights https://youtu.be/Lk7Je86YHIM?si=ZSivWTi-wWU41v5L

Day 4 – 35km, 1400m – ACHNASHELLACH TO KINLOCHEWE

An "easy" day, a technical route but easy running. I had a headache all night and most of the morning, I think dehydration from the previous day.

The route through Torridon is tough, but very much reminded me of The Lakes, it felt like a recovery run and a lot cooler compared to the long day previously which was more of a hike. Mostly cloud cover and a breeze before the Scottish rain set in later in the afternoon, my perfect running conditions

This day was the start of me climbing up the leaderboard. I'd dropped to around mid-60s position in the overall rankings by the mid-point of the event, but I'd never aspired to finish by a specific position or time, my goal was to complete the race and finish "well" (uninjured). This is not an "A" race, and picking up an injury that affected my triathlon training was something I needed to avoid.    

Fast time today, tenth fastest for the day, around 6 hours 30 minutes to complete.

Day 4 Highlights https://youtu.be/MweehsdIS-Y?si=Ic__950QTMrpzD49

Day 5 – 44km, 1400m – KINLOCHEWE TO INVERBROOM

Possibly my favourite segment, from Kinlochewe to Inverbroom. Some of the most dramatic landscapes the Highlands have to offer. The route begins with a gentle ascent,  towards the heights of the Fisherfield Forest, referred to as the "Great Wilderness." This area is renowned for its remoteness and rugged beauty, with towering peaks and deep glens offering a sense of isolation and tranquillity.

Another great day for me, with the fourth fastest time for the day. Finished super-strong and managed to out sprint the overall race leader in the final few km. Even picked up a Strava KoM leaderboard for the part of the route, too. 

The extra time in camp was a joy, it felt like a rest day, and I could finally start drying out clothing that had been washed but I had to pack away damp.

5 hours 45 minutes to complete.

Day 5 Highlights https://youtu.be/lHUnDpF6mS8?si=lqVly7I61XV1pLbZ

Day 6 – 72km, 1400m – INVERBROOM TO INCHNADAMPH

The first time I left with the main pack was at 7 am. Although initially slightly behind a big group, I could already see quite a few people carrying minor injuries and fatigue. We had a few kilometres of road running, and I felt great, so I thought I'd push myself from the start, work my way through the group, and lead most of the day. The segment started with a good climb skirting around Meall Dubh then forestry trail running, just like Grizedale back in The Lakes.

The initial climb turns into rocky outcrops and narrow ridges, requiring very careful foot placement. I was keen to see how long I could hold off the race leaders (who start a little later from the main pack), so I continued to set a decent pace and pulled away from the main group. I reached Oykel Bridge a mid-way checkpoint, at 37km and was still leading the pack. As I shuffled out the remaining 35 km, a few race leaders overtook me and complimented how well I was moving and how hard it had been to catch me up. The final descent to camp was extremely tricky in places and some mild-serious peril if you got things wrong.  

Four is a lucky number for me this week, with the fourth fastest time for the day. I also picked up my second fastest time on Strava for 50km. This is a good indication that I was moving well. Around 9 hours to complete.

This was a realisation that as others were getting tired, I felt stronger.

Day 6 Highlights https://youtu.be/srFlshgGnNM?si=AdgwChJmbJDIAJpD

Day 7 – 61km, 1600m – INCHNADAMPH TO KINLOCHBERVIE

Another big climb from camp and I set off sprinting across the start line, whooping, I guess I was excited. I was then caught by my recently acquired Belgium buddy, Taz. We had a pact that we would try to lead the day for as long as possible and it was my first time to run with someone able to move across the terrain quickly. It was great motivation to run with Taz and the week's highlight for me. I'd missed having a running buddy this week.

As the distance increased, what started as great weather (cloud and drizzle) turned into sunshine and the temperature rapidly rising, for me this is bad weather. Luckily Taz kept me motivated as I would have slowed down if I had been on my own.

We managed to hold off the fast runners until the first manned checkpoint, almost halfway. Then disaster struck with Taz twisting his knee on a tricky decent. This was really depressing as I hoped we would be able to finish the day together. He sent me on my way and luckily did not finish too far behind me, but I think if we could have stuck together, we would have finished very strong.

Fifth fastest time of the day. Just under 10 hours to complete.

Day 7 Highlights https://youtu.be/iuqOjds5Boo?si=X9vLtJSL5u0J6KJw

Day 8 – 26km, 700m – KINLOCHBERVIE TO CAPE WRATH

This week's experience has been amazing, and I just wanted to finish strong and run with a group of friends I'd made. I debated with myself about trying to pick up a leaderboard place or two, but having made it this far, why bother? I wanted to enjoy, not endure today.

We set off in order of the current leaderboard, and although a few people were putting in a fast pace, I knew that if I kept a target time of around 4 hours and did not get overtaken by too many folks, I'd hold my 15th/16thoverall position.  

Seeing the Cape Wrath lighthouse in the distance was a joy. It was the culmination of almost 400km, sleepless nights and active recovery. The sandwich and coke after the finish was the best food I have tasted this year.

Just under 4 hours to complete.

Day 8 Highlights https://youtu.be/g4EWnQLAZzY?si=AonXQNNo3qopr_jc

Finally, I'd like to give a big thanks to Ourea Events (www.oureaevents.com) for organising such an amazing experience. The Ourea team, and event volunteers, were on hand to help in any way they could and were genuine lifesavers in tough conditions – fabulous people!